Saturday, September 12, 2009

Pandam Garhi surfaces stone inscription

A stone tablet found at Pandam Garhi

Pandam Garhi is one such place that has always fascinated me. Several stories stay behind the backdrop of its origin that had been drawing interest among the common man for ages. I had heard a few war narratives related to the Pandam Garhi (fort) and Teen Jhurrey fort where the armies from opposite camps used to throw round river stones towards each other. This age-old method of throwing stones is more of a legend webbed in stories transferred from one generation to another. I am told that people discovered rusted arrows, cannon balls and a ‘jhatoa’ used for grinding grains and other objects in recent years by cattle grazers and by people moving to the jungle in search of woods.

But this summer the discovery that was found underneath the shifted rock boulders and muddy debris of Pandam Garhi have excited the local people out there. Stone tablets, pottery pieces and a few other bits and pieces of history related to the region were found by the locals at the recent renovation of the legendary Pandam Garhi wall. Two inscribed stone tablets were found that could not be deciphered by the locals. Also found at the site were broken pieces of pottery materials and more than half a dozen round river stones used for throwing at the enemies. Above all one more interesting item was found underneath the stones, the local people had collected a few burned blackened charcoal pieces.

The legendary ruined wall at Pandam is a 16 km uphill climb from Rangpo. Never in the pages of a history book do we come across its talk about when it was built or how it was constructed at the top of the hill? Over the years many theories have evolved regarding its origin. Some theorists associate the fort with some Lepcha legends while few disagree with it and have their own adage. They make us believe it was one of the Chogyals who constructed it to stop the approaching Bhutanese army from entering Sikkim. The last theory to add already baffling and controversial says it was one of the Gurkha Generals from Nepal who constructed the fort along with the Kalika Mandir also called Nishani Mandir just below it. With each theory making questions over my mind I decided to have my second trek to the Pandam Garhi. I had with me a few friends, some canned foods, a few bottles of water, a few photographs from my last visit and lots of excitement to carry my instinct towards the steep valley climb.

I do not know how others feel about the origin of the name “Pandam” but what I have learnt about the naming of this place is related to one of the most contentious episodes in Sikkim royal history. Pende Ongmu, the half-sister of Chogyal Chakdor Namgyal, the third Chogyal of Sikkim had successfully deliberated the murder of the Chogyal at Rabdanste and had gone hiding. She is believed to have been found at the fort of Pandam as such the name of the place is called Pendem after Pende Ongmu who was later taken to Namchi where she was put to death. The more popular name Pandam of today could be the angelized name of Pendem.

16 comments:

  1. As such i have not come across any historical evidence but i agree there are stories in lepcha folklore that discusses the pandam fort. here i would like to mention that the word "GARHI" has lepcha conection. In lepcha language "GR" is used in place of D. for example a boy in lepcha is called "TAdee" but since the early script did not have a separate character to sound "D" the spelling used was TAGREE....and it is used till today by many scholars. Now coming back to the word GARHI ...lepchas call a fort "DEE" like daamsang dee.SO the word GARHI may have its origins there.
    There were many attacks to sikkim by the BHutanese forces from the east (in 1700 ) and the gorkha forces from the west( after the 1775 treaty), there were forts built as defences....and many army generals were lepcha people"( eg.CHYUKTOP BOLOD)so i think the lepchas attach their legends to the forts.
    Anyways you have brought to attention the lost glory of sikkim and i guess all genuine sikkim lovers should develop more interest in the history of this great "NYE MAYEL RENJYONG LYANG"

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  2. Since i have mentioned etymology of the word GARHI in my previous post i am adding one more point here. The kingdom of Sikkim when phuntsog namgyal took the throne extended across the present town of siliguri.....Iman singh chemjong also has mentioned in his book that when the king of bijaypur tried to invade the erstwhile lepcha domain ..there was a lepcha king who was based in present day Kurseoung.....so the word SILIGURI has its origins there.....SAALi in lepcha means bow and GREE means fort. so Saaligri means fort maintained by archers.

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  3. Since i have mentioned etymology of the word GARHI in my previous post i am adding one more point here. The kingdom of Sikkim when phuntsog namgyal took the throne extended across the present town of siliguri.....Iman singh chemjong also has mentioned in his book that when the king of bijaypur tried to invade the erstwhile lepcha domain ..there was a lepcha king who was based in present day Kurseoung.....so the word SILIGURI has its origins there.....SAALi in lepcha means bow and GREE means fort. so Saaligri means fort maintained by archers.

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  4. Ya Jeff....i did read about the siliguri connection with the lepchas....Sathi lepchas of those era did many things and we are collecting it in pieces....time tah lagcha hola but himmat naharney lah....

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  5. well thats the spirit, I started my career in history of the lepchas (...practically 80% of the history of sikkim) very late...but like you every material and every folk tale is unfolding new truths that seemed like fiction years ago....i know you are genuine here and so am i......lets keep this going

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  6. For me everyday is a new day and i get to know atleast one new thing each day....so lets share with others....Tiday there is myself and you, am sure in days to come ppl will follow us.....

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  7. it felt good to see the pictures of gari on your blog as i belong to gari gaon pandam.....whenever i visit my busty i wake up with gari bhir right in front of my eyes....its just amazing.....

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  8. Thanks Suraj...why don't u add something about gari what u know and we do not....

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  9. a few minutes walk from the garhi mandir...there is a place from where you can see gangtok clearly if the weather is good... whether its true or not but i have heard from my folks that long time back ,the ruins of garhi was a hiding place for the king..the stones that were used for building the walls were brought from Rangpo river...just imagine..at that time there were no tippers and lorries....it was all just manpower...also there is a myth(or maybe its true)that there is a lot of king's wealth or "khazana" inside the caves of garhi mandir and its guarded by huge pythons and cobras.....till now nobody is able to go to that place ..(i have heard this from many old folks of pandam and sometimes its hard to dispose all those stories(or maybe reality) as rubbish.....

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  10. really loved this post... awesome!! mr. zorbongthing and shital pradhan hats off to you guys .... so looking forward for more of these interesting stuffs!! X0

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  11. Thnaks....Dechen Choden

    If we get people like you i am sure more is out from our Pandora boxes...

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  12. This is for your kind information that a "devi bhagwat mahapuran" is being organised at garhi devi mandir by "gari sunakhari club". from 23rd october to 31st october.everyone is invited on this auspicious occassion..

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  13. Hi Shital...i am a little curious regarding the name Silgarhi...i noticed there are 3 places with the same name "Silgarhi" First one is obviously in WB, Second one is far western Nepal and the third is in Himachal Pradesh...

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  14. Hi Joe thanks for the visit as per as u r talking about the place...there is this place in West Bengal called Siliguri that was once known as Sila Garhi.

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  15. Regarding Siliguri.....we Lepchas still call it SAALI GRI the fort manned by archers....if you dust your history the Terai plains including the present day siliguri and Jalpaiguri were part of the Sikkim's domain and the lepcha warriors manned numerous border posts in this region.....one of the Lepcha chiefs also married a daughter of the chief of this region...she was called ZOLASHI PUNDEE (the queen of teh rice growing plains).....

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  16. jeff add more of zolashi..there are legends of her...

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